While revisiting Miami in February, I attended the launch of this year’s edition of Art Wynwood, a fair that began in 2012. It has survived the waning of the art-fair phenomenon by allowing a takeover of pop surrealism in the booths, and by anointing enough Ps as VI to ensure a vip vernissage full of vigorously engineered décolletage. Thus the soul of the city was on display.

Nevertheless Miami permits something lost in blue metropolises in the age of medicalized technocracy and performative identity-consciousness: freedom to think whatever the hell you want. The trends were already in motion, but under the leadership of their respective governors, the swelling population of Florida blew past the withering one of New...


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